Food À la carte

The specialists

Published on 06/05/2022

Ranging from chips to eclairs, brioches and cookies, "single-product" establishments are springing up everywhere in Lyon, based on a simple concept : focussing on a single type of food in order to become a leader in the field.

Selling a single product, while reinventing it in various new ways, is a fast-growing trend. Many of Lyon’s confectioners are joining the adventure, such as the famous macaroon-maker Ladurée, and Pralus, with its Praluline. Over the past seven years, Amandine of Coney Cookies has explored a multitude of ways to revisit the classic New York-style cookie. At Les Éclaireurs, the eclair is king. With dozens of sweet and savoury flavours, there is something new to try each week. Mariller Les Saveurs concentrates on single-por-tion long tarts, while Miss Madeleine is a maestro of madeleines, with individual portions or larger ones to share, covered in chocolate or filled.

A fusion spirit

 This hyper-specialisation also includes sa-voury variations. There is Chloé Gauthier and Loucas Gervasi of Toké, for example. Inspired by South American empanadas, this duo bakes up a selection of turnovers with various fillings, based on traditional French recipes, such as duck confit and beef bourguignon. In the Croix-Rousse, Tahar Toumi, A.K.A. Don Arancino, spe-cialises in arancini – Sicilian stuffed and breaded rice balls. This was a tasty snack that “Frederick the Great loved to bring with him on his horse! ,” the chef, a former karateka, enjoys telling us. He has created almost fifty variations of this snack, with both savoury (including bolognese, mush-room-gorgonzola and foie gras-pistachio) and sweet (such as pink praline, or caramel and salted butter) versions.

Title-winning food

There are some talented individuals whose success extends beyond our city limits. One of them is Maxime Pothier of Croustiller. The young chef spent two years testing and research-ing before finding the recipe for the perfect chip: a Picardy potato cooked three times, first in salt water, then in peanut oil, and once again before serving. This tenacity earned him the title ‘best chip in the world’, awarded by the French TV show ‘Très Très Bon’. Then there is the kebab by Chëf, which was named ‘France’s best kebab’ for its remarkable combination of French veal, marinated vegetables, feta and crispy bread.These success stories inspire others. We recently discovered L’Ormiellerie, which specialises in Moroccan “honey cigars”. Its production lab is located in Villeurbanne and its products can be or-dered for delivery. The principle is the same with Spirale’s “revisited French-style brioche rolls”, while the organic donuts by Oupsi can be found at the market on Quai Augagneur on Thurs-days and Saturdays. This is a way for them to test their recipes and concept before opening a physical outlet. Some exciting taste experiences lie in store, as we search for the latest star of Ly-on’s food scene.

Mariller les saveurs
1 rue de Sèze,
Lyon 6e

Don Arancino
15 rue du mail,
Lyon 4e

Chëf
10 rue terme,
Lyon 1er

Spirale
instagram.com/spirale.lyon

Oupsi
www.oupsi.fr

L’ormiellerie
lormiellerie.fr