Fancy some ‘pâté-croûte’, or should that be ‘pâté-en-croûte’?

© Camille Gabert

In times gone by, the savoury pastry known as ‘pâté-croûte’ was one of the mainstays of medieval cuisine. Wrapping meat in pastry (‘croûte’ in French) was also a way to help preserve it. Reputed to be difficult and time-consuming to prepare, the recipe was for a long time abandoned by chefs and pork butchers, who left it to the supermarkets. 

That was before four obsessed individuals from Lyon came up with the Championnat du Monde de Pâté-Croûte (World Pâté-Croûte Championship). Now an internationally renowned event, this annual gathering held in December brings together candidates from around the globe. Michelin-starred chefs, caterers, pork butchers and/or holders of the Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF) title give free rein to their imaginations as they reinvent this savoury snack that offers boundless possibilities, using ingredients ranging from vegetables to fruits, seafood, game and offal.

All of this creativity has breathed new life into the delicacy made of pastry, jelly and filling that is pâté-croûte, which has made a big comeback in bouchons (Lyon’s authentic eateries), bistros and traditional establishments. You’ll have no trouble finding it in Lyon, with various fillings including Bresse chicken, Dombes duck, frog’s legs and even foie gras. Generally served as a cold starter, this local star also makes guest appearances as a cocktail appetizer. It will also be the highlight of any picnic.

Illustrated by Camille Gabert

During the last World Pâté-Croûte Championship, Jérémie Crauser came second, finishing ahead of 12 other finalists from around the world!