Caluire-et-Cuire on a plate(au)
Perched between the Rhône and Saône rivers, criss-crossed by multiple footpaths and surrounded by greenery, the hilltop town of Caluire-et-Cuire doesn’t show itself so easily but is accessible on foot, by bike or even over the water. Linked to Lyon by the Croix-Rousse district, home to the Radiant-Bellevue cultural centre, and a key commemorative site for the French Resistance, it’s also a very sporty town that takes time to enjoy life.
By Vanina Denizot
1. Dining
Chef Clément and head waiter Nicolas run one of the town’s most popular restaurants: La Terrasse Saint-Clair. The traditional menu changes every week, “like home cooking but better. Customers just have to take a seat, and all we ask of them is to be in a good mood”, smiles Clément. Bonus: the vast shady patio.
La Terrasse Saint-Clair2 Grande rue de Saint-Clair
2. Shopping
Petit Dream is a treasure chest concept store geared to the family. Offering fashion accessories, decoration, clothing, and more, Séverine regularly adds new finds to her 600 items. Her Lyon favourites include Léa & Moi jewellery and plantbased creations from Les Petits Bonheurs de Mani.
Petit Dream50 rue Jean-Moulin
3. Swimming
We won’t beat around the bush, the public swimming pool is one of the town’s key venues, featuring an indoor Olympic pool, warmweather recreational pool, paddling pool with play area, water slide and relaxation area, which - we’re not going to lie - is often taken by storm… There’s also a snack bar to enjoy your afternoon tea.
Municipale Isabelle-Jouffroy310 avenue Élie-Vignal
4. Snacking
Previously a lawyer, Caroline underwent a 360° reconversion by first studying for a vocational diploma then becoming manager of two bakeries in the town of Caluire-et-Cuire. Opened a few months’ apart this year, the two stores complement each other. The former has your usual fast service, but the latter is more relaxing with a traditional tea room atmosphere. Perfect for an oldfashioned afternoon tea of cookies and shortbread tarts. From breakfast to afternoon tea.
Boulangerie Mounette57 et 66 rue Jean-Moulin
5. Unwinding
The unmissable Voie de la Dombes, also known simply as the Voie Verte (i.e. walking and cycling path), gives walkers, rollerbladers, scooter and bike riders the opportunity to safely explore 4 km of former railway lines. Seven walking routes span out from this path, criss-crossing the town and offering an opportunity to discover its history and heritage.
Voie de la DombesPlace Jules-Ferry
6. Exploring
Venture down to the former Usine des Eaux water treatment plant which supplied the city of Lyon with drinking water from Roman times until 1976. Featuring both pump and filter tanks, this underground treasure has been a listed historic monument since 1988. The site can only be visited with a guide. Duration: approx. 2 hours
Booking required on : boutique.visiterlyon.com
2 avenue de Poumeyrol
7. Going out
The Lyon area’s emblematic venue, the Radiant-Bellevue, puts on shows of all kinds including comedy, music and dance. Highlights this autumn include The Hu in concert (24 September), the Karavel hip-hop dance festival (11 October) and a play written by and starring Stéphane De Groodt, Un léger doute (i.e. A slight doubt), 2 November.
radiant-bellevue.fr
1 rue Jean-Moulin
8. Travelling
“Eat well, drink well” is the motto at June, a Mediterranean-inspired café-restaurant-grocery store run by Géraldine and her associates, Claire and Julien, for the last ten years. Their Cantinetta’s speciality? Succulent lasagna made from antipasti and charcuterie, available from the catering aisle. They also sell olive oil, condiments, biscuits, pasta and excellent organic wines.
June78 rue Jean-Moulin
9. Walking
We have a soft spot for the little known but well-preserved Bois de la Caille footpath, which winds across the hill to the banks of the River Saône covering over six hectares.
Thirteen species of bats, including ten protected breeds, inhabit the wood, which is a true sanctuary of biodiversity.
8 rue du Bois-de-la-Caille
(entrée haute)
10. Remembering
The home of Jean Moulin, which became a memorial in 2010, is one of the main WWII commemorative sites. It’s here that Jean Moulin, alongside seven other resistance leaders, was arrested by Klaus Barbie and the Gestapo.
A memorial site to understand and reflect. Free visits (Wednesday and Saturday) booking required
(at 04 78 98 85 26).
2 place Jean-Gouailhardou