Out and about My weekend à la lyonnaise

Autumn on Place Bellecour

RossHelen-shutterstock
By Mélina
Published on 16/09/2024

Lying between the Rhône and Saône rivers, the emblematic place Bellecour, Europe’s biggest square, is an ideal meeting place and starting point for anyone looking to explore the Presqu’île from north to south and vice versa.

9am. Meeting with the Sun King

All Lyon locals have arranged to meet up at least once under the horse’s tail of the equestrian statue of Louis XIV. Created by sculptor François-Frédéric Lemot, the current statue dating from 1825 - the first one erected in 1713 was destroyed during the Revolution - was cast in Paris and transported to Lyon in only 12 days. After restoration, it returned to its pedestal last April. THE question remains: why a statue of Louis XIV? Because the monarch is said to have favoured the acquisition of the square by the city. As for the legend about his stirrups, we already told you about it in issue 4 of À La Lyonnaise.
Further more : shop.visiterlyon.com

1Oam. Shopping trip

Delphine Castel

From Place Bellecour, all roads lead to… shopping! So head down Rue de la République, known locally as Rue de la “Ré”, Rue de Brest, Rue Auguste-Comte, Rue Émile-Zola or any of the other roads fanning out from the square. Major international brands, unique concept stores, local gems, fashion, decoration, literature, beauty, and much more... there’s something for every taste and every budget. Heading through the area from 11 to 13 October?
Make the most of the 3rd year of the Lyon Braderie Festival with its bargain buys, workshops and demonstrations. Exceptionally, Place des Jacobins will be transformed into a garden to mark the occasion.
mypresquile.com

12am. Lunch break

Maureen Domprobst

The morning over, it’s lunchtime! Fancy grabbing a bite to eat on the go? Greekia’s generous kebabs will keep you fuelled for the rest of the day. Our recommendation: the Georges and its marinated chicken topped with tzatziki and pomegranate. To the north of the square, check out Bellie, a fashionable spot for shared (and seasonal) cuisine featuring stylish colours and flavours, or otherwise the impeccable Comptoir Cecil on the ground floor of the Globe & Cecil hotel.

Bellie
61 rue Mercière
Greekia
6 rue de la Charité
Comptoir Cecil 
21 rue Gasparin

3pm. Hungry for contemporary 

JSP Art Photography

Flavours New this season, the Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie is for the first time featuring among the Lyon Bienniale of Contemporary Art sites. From room to room, the works exhibited reflect the medicinal history of this former hospital that has been converted into a food and gastronomical museum. It’s enough to whet your appetite before getting going again.

labiennaledelyon.com  

4 Grand Cloître du Grand Hôtel-Dieu
Jusqu’au 5 janvier 2025

6pm. Early cocktail party 

Canabae

There’s no need to look any further to start the evening off, just head down the road to the Intercontinental hotel bar: Le Dôme. Named in reference to the stunning Soufflot-designed dome overlooking the premises from 32 metres above, it’s without question one of the most spectacular spots in the city. Its signature cocktail, Le Dôme, gives top billing to pink praline. The livelier L’Officine just next door has a cosy, jazzy or electro atmosphere according to the evening’s chosen theme.

Le Dôme
20 quai Jules-Courmont
L’Officine
3 Cour Saint-Henri, 
Grand Hôtel-Dieu

8pm. Dinner with the Mères Lyonnaises

Dado Lopez-Perez

Lyon means "bouchon". And it’s a good thing because one of the oldest restaurants is hidden just a stone’s throw from Place Bellecour. Opened in 1943 by Léa Bidault and since taken on by chef Christian Têtedoie, the establishment has now split in two, serving a modern twist on bistro cuisine at La Mère Léa and pure traditional “bouchon” cuisine at Le Comptoir de Léa. Menu highlights: Lyon salad, “boudin noir” black pudding with apples, pike “quenelle” dumplings, “tablier de sapeur” beef tripe (also see page 17) and soft meringues with pink praline.
lamerelea.com   

La Mère Léa
11 quai des Célestins
Le Comptoir de Léa
11 place Antonin-Gourju